Adventures in Marche, Umbria and Romagna
Tuesday, April 22, 2014
Conclusion
After an amazing travel with a group of lovely ladies I have gotten so much out of this experience. I was able to connect my readings of literature and art to real places and learn about the way that Italian culture thrives in a modern society. I would only be able to do this through Franklin and our academic travel program and I am so grateful. It was a pleasure to learn about the Italian culture and put my knowledge towards real life situations. I can say with a full heart that I learned and gained knowledge about Italian culture and myself!
Day Nine: Ravenna
As our last official day of travel we started the day early
with breakfast and packed bags. Our tour guide met us at our hotel in the city
center and we started our 3 hour long tour.
Ravenna is located in the Emilia-Romagna region and serves
as the current capital of the Province of Ravenna. Ravenna once consisted of small
islands something similar to that of Venice today. Currently, Ravenna is home
to 8 UNESCO World Heritage sights and is a popular tourist destination during
the summer. The city is known for its beautiful mosaics in multiple Cathedrals
around the city as well as the various mosaic workshops located in Ravenna.
The first stop on our tour was the basilica di San Vitale. The
mosaics on the ceilings were absolutely breathtaking and our guide was very
thorough on explaining each mosaic. The mosaics included biblical mosaics of
Moses, Abraham, and Cain and Abel, as well as Emperor Justinian and his wife. I
was in love with the colors and the way the pictures popped so I took many
photos of the beautiful art.
After the Basilica we walked to the Tomb of Galla Placidia
who was a Roman Empress. Inside the mausoleum, there were 3 tombs, which are
supposed to hold the body of Galla Placidia. However, she is buried in Rome and
not in the mausoleum. However the
mausoleum does house some of the most beautiful mosaics in all of Ravenna. One
of these is called the Good Shepherd which depicts Jesus Christ watching over a
flock of sheep. The beautiful religious and cultural content of each mosaic was
gorgeous.
Once we finished in the mausoleum we made our way to the
Tomb of Dante Alghieri. This is the current burial place of the author of the
Divine Comedy. Dante lived the last of his years in Ravenna and possibly wrote
his greatest works here although he was born in Florence. Every year the people
of Florence come to Ravenna and ask for the body of Dante and every year the
people of Ravenna decline. Right next to Dante’s Tomb was an old monastery.
There was a library near the monastery and we found an expert on Dante and his
literature and she showed us some of the oldest copies of the Divine Comedy.
The books were absolutely gorgeous however I was a little shorter than my
fellow classmates and had a harder time seeing the books up close.
Soon after the library, our tour guide took us to a mosaic
store where the owner also hosts workshops. We were allowed to see her mosaics
and the process that she does when creating a work. I was delighted to learn
about the process of making mosaics and her art was absolutely beautiful. It
was very interesting for me to think about how this historical Italian culture
of making mosaics has transitioned into the modern world. Beautiful works of
art will live on.
After the mosaic store, we visited the Basilica di Sant’Appolinare Nuovo. Orginally, this Basilica was an Arian church but after new rule in Ravenna, the mosaics in the church were said to have been ordered to be blackened and no longer exist. Today, some of the remnants of the mosaics from the Arian church can be seen in more recent works of art. My favorite mosaics were the longest which depicted female and male saints. Each person had a different expression and different physical features which I can only imagine took hours and hours of work.
After our tour finished we had the afternoon to ourselves and
were allowed to shop and relax, we later met at the hotel and had a beautiful
dinner in the city center. The food was delicious, the wine was fantastic and I
loved bonding with my classmates over the beauties of Italian culture. It was a
wonderful way to end our academic travel.
Day Eight: Assisi and Montefalco
Today, we packed up our belongings again had a delicious breakfast
and left on our way to Assisi! We had a wine tasting in Montefalco and a short
drive to Ravenna.
Assisi, located in the Umbria region, is famous for being
the birthplace of St. Francis’ and now serves as a major tourist destination. I
connect a lot with St. Francis and the town of Assisi was very meaningful to me
because of his influence.
The first destination on our tour of Assisi was St. Clare’s
Basilica. We had a small scavenger hunt to find certain things in the Basilica
and locate where they were. We found the crypt of St. Clare, and compared the
crosses of the Basilica. St. Clare’s remains are important because they were
transferred from the chapel of San Giorgio to the Basilica where they reside
today. We were not about to see the crypt but it was amazing to be in such a
place for me. St. Clare was born in Assisi and after hearing Francis’ story she
decided to follow in his footsteps and devote her life to prayer. After she
refused the wealth of her family and an arranged marriage she moved to Gubbio
and sought the help of St. Francis. Her devotion to religion is inspiring and I
think that Italian modern culture can learn from the history that they have in
their towns.
The next stop on our tour was the Basilica of St. Francis
which is also the headquarters of the Franciscan Order. It has been a UNESCO
World Heritage Site since 2000 and construction began immediately after St.
Francis’ canonization on July 16, 1228. There are two churches in the Basilica
one Upper and one Lower. St Francis’ body was moved from what is currently St.
Clare’s Basilica to St. Francis’ Basilica. Both churches are covered in frescos
and contain Giotto’s cycle of frescos. They show St. Francis’ life and are so
vivid and beautiful. I could have stood and looked at them for hours but sadly
we were on a strict schedule.
The most important part of the Basilica is considered to be the
Crypt of St. Francis. In 1818, St. Francis’ body was discovered underneath the
Lower Church and the Pope ordered that a crypt be built so that people could
visit the burial place of St. Francis. I felt so blessed to be a part of such a
beautiful part of Italian culture and that I have been able to visit all of
these very spiritual places.
We left Assisi in the afternoon for a wine and olive oil
tasting in Montefalco with a certified sommelier. The meal included an array of
dishes that were specific to this region and paired wonderfully with the wines.
Everything was absolutely delicious, especially the spaghetti which looked
beautiful, and the wine was amazing! We tried a selection of three wines which
were the Grechetto di Todi, Montefalco Rosso, and Sangrantino. I enjoyed the
Grechetto di Todi wine the most. The Sangrantino was a little too strong and
spicy for me. Before we tasted each wine, our sommelier had us describe the
wine’s characteristics such as its smell, color, and characteristics. After our
meal, we went to see how they produced their olive oil. One of the women explained
how they used the machines to process the olives and how they gather the olives
in the Fall. It was such a great learning experience for me and I loved
learning more about wine.
After our wine and olive oil tasting, we returned back to
the bus for a 3 hour ride to Ravenna, our last travel destination for the trip.
Today was a beautiful spiritual experience for me and I really loved to learn
about the religious history of Italian culture!
Day Seven: Todi and Perugia
Another beautiful start to the day in Todi we had a formal
tour of Todi and later a tour of Perugia.
Todi is a small city on top of a hill and was originally
founded by an Umbrian population. It is most famous for being the birth place
of Jacopone da Todi. Jacopone da Todi was not religious in any way until later
in his life and came from a very wealthy family. However, when his wife died,
he became a deeply religious man and followed the wishes of his wife. His wife
felt that she was sinning because she was married to Jacopone and he was not a
religious man. When Jacopone learned about the death of his wife he vowed to
change his ways and became a very religious man. Today he is now buried in the
Cathedral of San Fortunato.
Our first stop was to the Cathedral of San Fortunato to see
the burial of Jacapone da Todi. It is clear that the cathedral was left
unfinished due to insufficient funds but however this cathedral is important
because it honors the patron saint of Todi, San Fortunato who healed the people
of the town. This cathedral also resembles the cathedral of Orvieto because it
wanted to compare to the Papal State. The cathedral is important because it was
built by the city and is still currently owned by Todi. On the outside of the
cathedral there are many symbols one of these are the vines and fig trees. The
trees symbolize evil and can grow without care whereas a vine is good and holy
because it needs constant care just like your faith in religion. I thought this
was a beautiful analogy that I related to very much so.
We stoped in the Piazza del Popolo and saw many people
strolling around or enjoying a cappuccino. The piazza was a great part of the
city and I enjoyed looking at the people walking around the city.
After looking at the piazza we went to the Cathedral of
Santa Maria. This Cathedral is a mix of roman and gothic styles. It was less
beautiful than the previous cathedrals we had been in and was disappointing to
see the decay of the artwork. After the cathedral we toured a small chapel
called the Annunciatina. This chapel was so small and absolutely gorgeous with
its bright colors and ornate columns.
It was so funny for me to see the old doors of this chapel being
opened with a 500 year old key. I was appreciative that we had a chance to see
a place that not many other people have the chance to view or learn about. That’s
one of the reasons I love academic travel for the small experiences you wouldn’t
be able to have on your own. Todi was a cute town and I enjoyed learning about
the history and how it functions in the modern city.
After free time in Todi, we drove to Perugia where we had an
afternoon tour. Perugia is located in the Umbria region and was founded by the
Etruscans but later conquered by the Romans. The city is a well-known cultural
and artistic center which explained the large population of people in the city.
Perugia is also known for the chocolate Perugina which makes
the famous Baci and the University for Foreigners. Professor Lazzari was nice
enough to purchase us all Baci from Perugia and they were delicious! It is also
the birthplace of Pietro Perugino who was the possible mentor of Raphael. After
our tour, we had some time to explore the city and its shops before heading
back to Todi to sleep!
I enjoyed both Todi and Perugia so much and I can see myself
traveling to both places in the future with my family.
Day Six: Orvieto
When we woke up we had a beautiful breakfast waiting for us,
we all stalked up on food knowing that we had a long day ahead of us. We were
excited for the adventures that Orvieto had in store.
Located in the Umbrian region, Orvieto is mostly situated on
flat grounds. The city used to be surrounded by large walls to protect from war
and struggle but today you can see the remains of the destroyed walls in the
town. Orvieto is seen as a very important city because of its prominence in the
middle ages and it later became a part of the Papal States. Orvieto was
historically under papal rule until 1860 and is a common destination among
tourists for its vast history and beauty.
In addition, the Duomo also contains beautiful frescoes of
the Last Judgment from Luca Signorelli. These frescoes were inspired by Dante’s
Divine Comedy and our guide took a significant amount of time explaining each scene
of the fresco in order. This was really helpful to better understand the
frescoes and the symbolism in each scene. I was so impressed and in awe of the
frescoes, such detail and meaning in one ceiling was just breathtaking. It was
a great opportunity to be able to see Signorelli’s frescoes in person!
After the tour we had free time to explore and eat some
lunch. I sat and had a wonderful long lunch with my friends and did some
minimal shopping. Orvieto seems like a beautiful city and I’d love to return
and explore again!
Once everyone gathered back together we left for Cantina Peppucci to experience a wonderful wine tasting. We met with Lorenzo Landi and one of his co-workers who explained the process he takes to make his wines and the specific grapes used in each product. In total we tasted 3 wines and learned that the wine production starts in October so we were unable to see the physical process of creating the wines. The first wine we tasted was a white wine named Montorsolo. This wine was made of 100% Grechetto di Todi and was a light yellow color. I quite enjoyed this wine which was strange for me because I usually do not enjoy whites. We paired it with small appetizers like salami, cheese and bread with rosemary. The next wine was called the Giovanni. This wine was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot and was quite beautiful. The Giovanni was a red wine that we learned should be paired with game and matured cheeses. And last, but not least, there was the Alter Ego which is made with 100% Sangrantino grapes. It was a deep red wine that should be paired with matured cheeses, game and red meat. The Alter Ego had by far the highest alcohol percentage and was a little too strong for my taste. I loved both the Montorsolo and Giovanni and the wonderful food and sunset over the rolling hills. A beautiful ending to a great day.
Day Five: Gubbio and Todi
“All the darkness in
the world cannot extinguish the light of a single candle.”
― Francis of Assisi, the Little Flowers of St. Francis of
Assisi
Once everyone had packed their belongings and we had our
breakfast and took a group photo, we left on a journey to Gubbio! Gubbio is
located in the Umbrian region of Italy, it is a very ancient city and was once
the capital of Umbria.
Once in Gubbio the first stop we made was to the Church of
Saint Francis. St Francis was a merchant’s son and when he arrived in Gubbio he
denounced his riches and was given a cloak. He decided to give up his
possessions and became a very religious man. He is now the St Patron of
Ecologists and we were told an old story about a wolf that would terrorize
Gubbio. St Francis spoke with the wolf and arranged for the people to feed it
and give it offerings. It is actually said that the wolf was not a wolf but a
woman who was looking for her children and became a little crazy. They took
care of her and eventually buried her in the church.
There is a large fratiminory in Gubbio today because of the
influence of St. Francis. First there were only monks who stayed in monasteries
and practiced the word of god. Friars were known because they spread the word
of god. The structure of the church is gothic but inside it was a mix of modern
and olden arches and windows painted by local artists. We discussed the lives
of the friars and that there were only three rules the monks had to follow,
chastity, poverty, and obedience. We learned that Franciscans are known around
the world because they do not leave anyone alone. They help everyone and this
is known to be the success of the town. The Franciscans went from about 12
people to over 10,000 followers in 10 years. I love Marche because I love St Francis. His story is so beautiful to me, that a man with wealth gave up everything to follow in the word of God. I bonded greatly with Gubbio and the story of St. Francis.
Once we exited the church and entered the city I noticed how
close all of the houses were. This was because the town needed to save money,
many of the houses also sported a “porta del morto” or a door of death. This
door was used to remove dead bodies from the house so that the soul may leave
in peace. The structure of the city gives it the impression of being very tall
and big, this is because it was difficult to build on the slopes of the
mountains.
The next stop on our tour was the palace in Gubbio originally
built in the 14th century. The entrance of the palace itself leads to the “decision”
room. Today, the palace is now a museum and has a bell tower that contains a
bell that weighs approximately 2000 kilograms. We also learned about the Corsa
dei Ceri, also known as the Run of the Candlesticks which is very important in
Gubbio. We stopped at the Duomo which provided beautiful views of the Italian
countryside.
After our tour, we received some free time for lunch and to
walk around the city. I found a small restaurant with 3 of my friends and
ordered my first ever calzone. After lunch we sat in the main square and enjoyed
the architecture and the sights. After our break we met back on the bus so we
could drive to Todi where we would stay for 3 nights.
Before we left for dinner in Todi, we attended a small
lecture with Professor Lazzari’s mother, Monica Lazzari. She presented on Saint
Clare of Todi, and Dacia Maraini. Dacia Maraini is an Italian author who wrote
Chiara d’Assisi. The book that she wrote is a contemporary story that speaks
about a modern-day St. Clare and St. Francis. I thought this was an interesting
take on how Italian history influences current society. We learned that St.
Clare was born in Assisi and lived a life devoted to prayer. She founded The
Order of the Poor Ladies, which is now known as The Order of St. Clare. Nuns
that join the order must take a vow of silence to devote themselves to prayer.
The presentation was powerful and moving as Professor Lazzari’s mother
transformed herself into the traditional dress of a St. Clare Nun.
After the wonderful presentation, we left to the restaurant
called Pane e Vino. The four course dinner included red wine, risotto, lasagna,
red meat with potatoes, and chocolate cake. It was a delicious meal with great
people and as the days passed I felt myself growing closer to my friends and
the Italian culture.
Day Four Family Dinner
For our last night in Castelraimondo and our fourth night we
had a lovely Italian dinner. We each prepared our own respective dishes ranging
from antipastos to desserts. I planned to prepare stuffed peppers with my
partner, upon reaching the grocery store there was not the proper ingredients
for the peppers so we though to switch to another antipasto. After looking for
the proper ingredients for caprese salad with no luck we finally decided that
we could make a bruschetta and purchased the required items. With about 2 hours
of cook time we did our prep first cutting the bread and chopping the tomatoes
and rosemary. After the prep work was done we had some down time before we
wanted to put everything together. My partner and I played cards with another
group while we waited and finally went back to our room to finish our dish.
After sizzling the bread and the tomatoes we plated the bruschetta and went to
the main room for our group dinner.
Once we arrived with our dishes at eight o’clock not
everyone was ready with their dishes. To make sure everyone had ample time for
cooking we set the tables and set up our food. Once everyone arrived the food
was delicious. We had an array of pizza, lasagna, pasta rolls, meatballs, soup
and our bruschetta. I personally thought everything was delicious and was full
after sampling all of the dishes available. We ate together and talked and had
a great time not only cooking our dishes but eating them together. After dinner
we cleaned our plates and sat together for a dessert of panna cotta and
tirasmisu. Both were delicious and gave me a perfect ending to a great day. I
feel like the dinner was a great way to talk to a lot of my classmates and
share some time with them in a more intimate setting.
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